Tips & Tricks : Head Hack

Another Amigurumi TIP to share with you.

It's been a while since I've put up an Amigurumi Tips and Tricks.  So tonight, while I was working on a new project - I thought it would be a perfect time to put up another little tip to help make your Amigurumi Making a little easier.

There is little doubt that in 99% of amigurumi projects you take on, you are going to spend the most amount of time on the HEAD.

There's indentations to be made, eyes to sew on, ears, perhaps even mouths, eyelids, spots, freckles.. whatever!!  
There's so much to do with the Head - and let's face it, it's one of the most critical parts of the entire project.  But in creating the face, there is plenty of room for error and stuffing bunchup - which can change the over all appearance of your final project - and not always for the better.

What I like to do is save the 'finishing' ("Finish off, leaving sufficient tail remaining to weave through the front loops of Rnd XX to close opening") for the very end, when I am completely done with the Head and all it's parts.  

The Head has a natural 'hiding spot' that you don't have to worry about snagging any stitches while putting those loose ends to bed!
Just save that final step of the finishing until you are all done!!  This also helps when you have the stuffing 'shift' or bunch up, due to it being pulled tight in some areas while sewing.
With the opening in the back (or bottom of head), you have some 'wiggle room' to make corrections.  You can add more stuffing to help balance out any spots that are lacking or just have a safe spot to tie all those loose ends!

I hope this tip helps you in your next Amigurumi Project!
Happy Crocheting
~K

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

IN GENERAL:
Q:  HOW CAN I REACH YOU?
A:  .. you've reached me!!  But privately, you can always reach out to me on Facebook ( http://goo.gl/lF9oad ),  by using the "Contact Seller" convo button on Etsy ( http://etsy.me/2ddoF4t ).  However, the quickest, most reliable method to alert me that you need to contact me is to send me an eMail to fiberdoodles@gmail.com


Q: CAN I SELL WHAT I MAKE FROM YOUR PATTERNS?
A:  You certainly can sell what you make from patterns purchased from FiberDoodles by K4TT!  In fact, I encourage it and try to help you out!!  I only request that you do not use my photos to 'take orders'.   While a link back to my shop or facebook page is greatly appreciated, it's not a deal breaker.  You can read full details here: http://bit.ly/2cU5aKf


Q: CAN YOU DESIGN/DO YOU PLAN ON DESIGNING?
A:  I really don't plan my designs in the sense that you might be thinking.  Most of my patterns are designed by inspiration.  Something seen in nature - something said on conversation that sparks a mental picture and before you know it, I am putting it to fiber.  I have a few hundred drawings of 'designs' and even more suggestions written on "to do lists".  But first and foremost, I am an artist and that dictates what come from my hooks and fiber.


Q: I SENT YOU A LINK TO A FREE PATTERN BUT YOU DIDN'T USE IT.  WHY?
A:  I am very selective about the links that I share on my page.  Mostly, I share links of those whom I know personally or have done business with.  Occasionally, I will share links to patterns from designers that I do not know, but this is only after I look at several of their patterns to determine they are not copying someone else's work.  Many so-called-designers will offer free patterns, which are really only translations of Premium Patterns of another designer.  I do not wish to participate in that sort of theft.


Q: CAN I TEST FOR YOU?
A:  You would not believe how many people ask this question, are given the opportunity to test and then NEVER get back to the designer - not just myself, but MANY other designers as well.  That makes many designers very selective with whom they chose to work with.  Time is your friend if you want to test for me.  Make sure to show me your finished doodles on my Facebook Page, or share with me via eMail.  I use various skill levels as testers to ensure that the patterns from the Doodle Library are user friendly, so don't be afraid to show off your efforts.   



PATTERN SPECIFIC:
Q:  I HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A PATTERN I BOUGHT.  HOW CAN I REACH YOU?
A:  Obviously, for me to answer the question.. you've reached me!!  Yeah!!  But on the title page of each pattern, you can find all my contact information (email address, shops where my patterns are sold).  You can always reach out to me on Facebook using the Message Button (when active/not during the off-school months), Sending a Private Message to my "personal Facebook Page" (D. Katt), or by using the "Contact Seller" convo button on Etsy.  However, the quickest, most reliable method to alert me that you need to contact me is to send me an eMail to fiberdoodles@gmail.com
It is NEVER okay to post instructions from my patterns online. 


Q:  IS THIS PATTERN WRONG?
A:  I make every effort humanly possible to make sure that when a pattern is released, that it is error free.  But do errors still occur from time to time?  Sure, I am not a computer or a robot and neither are my testers/associates.  But most times I have been contacted, it's been that a client has not understood the instructions to a pattern or has not read the pattern correctly.
There are always notes in the beginning of the pattern on any special stitches that I may use.  I also created a tutorial on "how to read patterns" on my blog  that you can find here:   http://bit.ly/2cJoivy
In most instances - either of these will "resolve the issue' that someone feels is wrong with any of my patterns.
However, if you do find an error, please do not hesitate to ask me about it!


Q:  DO YOU SELL PATTERNS IN LANGUAGES OTHER THAN ENGLISH?  & Q: CAN I TRANSLATE YOUR PATTERNS?
A: No, I do not. And no, you may not.   If you see my patterns written in Russian, Dutch, French or any other language, they are stolen property.  It's not that I do not value non-English speaking friends and their desire to hook up a doodle or two; but if you cannot communicate (even brokenly) in English, then I won't be able to assist you if you run into a problem completing your purchase; therefore, I do not offer patterns in any language other than English.


Q:  I DON'T LIKE WORKING IN CHAINS, CAN I USE A MAGIC CIRCLE INSTEAD?
A:  You CAN - but it won't look like the photo.  Working in chains is really not that difficult when you know how.  That's why I wrote a tutorial several years ago to help.  You can find that here: http://bit.ly/2cJoR8s



SPECIALS:
Q: DO YOU OFFER DISCOUNTS FOR MULTIPLE PURCHASES?
A:  No, I do not.  I do have sales, items that are marked down for clearance and host giveaways during the school season - this, I believe, creates opportunities for everyone to get the best deals on my patterns.  But my clients generally make the price of each pattern back, with the sales they make from completing their projects; especially those who make large, multiple purchases.


Q: WHAT HAPPENED TO THE LIST OF PREVIOUS GIVEAWAY WINNERS?
A: Sadly, people were using the names of previous contest/giveaway winners as a shopping list.  Not only was it putting my clients in an uncomfortable position of being contacted by strangers, but it was also unnecessary to maintain a list of Winners/prizes - most collect their prizes within 12 hrs of learning they have won. 


Q: CAN I SHARE YOUR POST ON FACEBOOK?  INSTAGRAM? TWITTER? (Etc)
A:  You are welcome to share any ORIGINAL PUBLIC post made by FiberDoodles by K4TT.  On Facebook, you can select the "share" button.  On other venues, depending on options available to you, you may have to copy/past the link to public posts.  It is never okay to copy/paste content, share coupon codes, etc - void of the official post.


Q:  ALL YOUR PHOTOS SAY NOT TO SHARE.  DOES THIS MEAN I CAN'T ADD IT TO MY PINTEREST?
A:  All of my photos are my intellectual property and contain a watermark that indicates you may not share on sharing sites.  This makes it easier for Google, Bing, Yahoo!, etc to remove my content from sites where it should not be - such as illegal share sites.  You are more than welcome to share my photos on your private blog, on your Facebook Page, add to your Pinterest Catalog, etc.  "Sharing Sites" are only really 'Stealing Sites".

Parentheses & Brackets, Repeat? OH MY!

I have gotten 3 messages in the past 2 weeks, containing questions about my patterns - and that's 3 too many in my book!

Firstly, I must say - if you are having an issue with a pattern - whether it is understanding the instruction or needing clarification of what is written or even looking for an answer to a 'personal preference' (what yarn to use, changing hook sizes, etc); please do not post you question(s) in the comment section of various places.  

Why?  What have I got to hide?  Absolutely nothing! 
But it could be a week or more before I see what you have written. eMail is checked (usually) every 30 mins - you will be seen/assisted much quicker and (hopefully) not grow frustrated about your project.


MY CLIENTS, whom I value dearly, can reach me anytime they have an issue!!  My eMail address can be found on the pattern's title page, as well as on this blog, on download eMails (received from Ravlery.com  "For pattern-related issues or questions, please contact the designer at fiberdoodles@gmail.com."  etc, etc. )
I am not one of those "I am too good to answer your beneath-me questions" designers who ignores your eMails. 

Okay... 
asterisks * instructions *  
brackets  [ instructions ]
parentheses  ( instructions )
braces  { instructions }
All of the above...

The Craft Yarn Council has been and continues working to establish 'standards' across the board so that the industry on a whole becomes more uniform, making it easier to prepare consumer-friendly products for YOU - so whether you purchase a pattern from Designer A, Designer B or FiberDoodlesbyK4TT; all the patterns would have a similar appearance in how they are written, letting YOU know exactly what to expect.

Well, with regards to writing a pattern, this may never happen because each designer has their own writing comforts and visual cues to help you the purchaser, make their wares.

One well known designer uses the *asterisks* to indicate "repeating patterns"
her work could look similar to this (this is NOT part of any actual pattern, only a visual example)
Rnd 4: *2 single crochet, 2 single crochet in next stitch*, repeat from *to* 6 times
Rnd 5: *3 single crochet, 2 single crochet in next stitch*, repeat from *to* 6 times 

Another well known designer uses (parentheses) to indicate "repeating patterns"
her work could look similar to this (this is NOT part of any actual pattern, only a visual example)
Rnd 4: (2sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc), around
Rnd 5: (2sc in 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc), around

I use [brackets] to indicate "repeating patterns"
Rnd 4: [sc in ea of nxt 2 sts, Inc in nxt st] 6 times
Rnd 5: [sc in ea of nxt 3 sts, Inc in nxt st] 6 times

So which one is right?
Bueller?  ... Bueller?  

All 3 are correct according to the Yarn Council and all are used commonly and interchangeably.
When writing a pattern out, the designer is trying to find the shortest text to convey the complete instruction - this way, the pattern user, doesn't get lost in huge blocks of written text.

It is my personal preference to use brackets over asterisks - because in all honesty, there were many (MANY) times, in reading the tiny print of materials written in magazines, where I would miss the asterisks and have to rip out rounds or rows.  How frustrating that is .. to have old eyes and a young heart!

Since I am here to talk about MY patterns, let's examine what the directions are telling you to do! *text colors (as seen below) are NOT present in my patterns, but used here in the blog to break a line into sections for easy identification and explanation.


___ Rnd 4: [sc in ea of nxt 2 sts, Inc in nxt st] 6 times  (24 sts)

This is what you might see inside one of my patterns.  But what exactly is it saying?

Here in Red: ___ Rnd 4:
is the round you are working on.  I like to add the little line before, so that it can be "checked" off once completed (by those who actually print out the pattern)

Highlighted in Gold you see the opening bracket - [  and the closing bracket  ]
this should trigger your repeat alarm - 'the designer is going to ask me to do something more than once.'

Written in Blue you see the written instructions - sc in ea of nxt 2 sts, Inc in nxt st
this is telling you : single crochet in next stitch of the previous round, single crochet in the next stitch of the previous round, 2 single crochets in the next st of the previous round

Highlighted in Yellow, you see how many times you are being asked to perform the instruction - 6 times    - in this case, 6 (six) repetitions

and finally, in Rust, you see the Final Round Count  (24 sts)
so when you are finished with this round, this is the # of stitches you should have made (which I have clients who would skin me alive, should I leave out *grin*)

So here is what the entire instruction is saying in long form:
single crochet in next stitch of the previous round, single crochet in the next stitch of the previous round, 2 single crochets in the next stitch of the previous round, single crochet in next stitch of the previous round, single crochet in the next stitch of the previous round, 2 single crochets in the next stitch of the previous round, single crochet in next stitch of the previous round, single crochet in the next stitch of the previous round, 2 single crochets in the next stitch of the previous round, single crochet in next stitch of the previous round, single crochet in the next stitch of the previous round, 2 single crochets in the next stitch of the previous round, single crochet in next stitch of the previous round, single crochet in the next stitch of the previous round, 2 single crochets in the next stitch of the previous round, single crochet in next stitch of the previous round, single crochet in the next stitch of the previous round, 2 single crochets in the next stitch of the previous round


Another reason why I prefer [brackets] over the *asterisks* is also because several of my works have multiple 'short cuts' 
for example say for a round, I was interested in only placing the Increases at the ends - say it was a chain start and I wanted to keep things oval/rectangular/etc instead of round:

[(Inc in nxt st, sc in ea of nxt 2 sts) twice, Inc in nxt st, sc in ea of nxt 14 sts] twice (48 sts)

OMG WHAT IS THAT?
There's brackets and parentheses - I am supposed to make 48 stitches out of THAT!?!
K4TT is whacked, she's made a mistake!!
There's only 24 stitches in there!!

Okay, so let's look at it - there is an opening bracket - so obviously, there should be a closing bracket ... so first,  let's see what's inside 
Inside the brackets, there are parentheses ... okay,  so what is in them  (since they are the first instruction listed)..

Opening parentheses - then it says to Increase in the next st, then single crochet in each of the next 2 stitches - then it closes the parentheses.  okay.. so how many times is this supposed to be done???  well, it says "twice"
so that means : 2 single crochet in the next stitch of the previous round, single crochet in the next st of the previous round, single crochet in the next st of the previous round, 2 single crochet in the next stitch of the previous round, single crochet in the next st of the previous round, single crochet in the next st of the previous round
so far you have made 8 stitches towards the final round count...

Okay..NOW what?  then the instruction reads Inc in next st,
So, 2 single crochet in the next stitch of the previous round - now we have a total of 10 stitches towards the final round count...

NOW What?
now continuing reading the instructions, it says to single crochet in each of the next 14 stitches of the previous round.
Okay... well that's only 24 stitches!

ahh... but you are forgetting those [brackets] aren't you?
Look beyond the final instruction of crocheting in the 14 stitches and you will notice the closing bracket and it's power (how many times you need to perform the operation) which is twice or 2 times.
So, you would repeat all the instructions inside the brackets a second time.
24 + 24 = 48

That's easy enough right?

Okay.. so how would you read the following?

[sc in ea of nxt 7 sts, (Inc in nxt st, sc in ea of nxt 2 sts) twice, Inc in nxt st, sc in ea of nxt 7 sts] twice (48 sts)



...........


if you read the above instruction as:
single crochet in next 7 stitches, 2 single crochet in next stitch, single crochet in next 2 stitches,  2 single crochet in next stitch, single crochet in next 2 stitches, 2 single crochet in next stitch, single crochet in next 7 stitches, single crochet in next 7 stitches  2 single crochet in next stitch,  single crochet in next 2 stitches,  2 single crochet in next stitch, single crochet in next 2 stitches  2 single crochet in next stitch, single crochet in next 7 stitches

or*

single crochet in next 7 stitches,  2 single crochet in next stitch, single crochet in next 2 stitches,  2 single crochet in next stitch, single crochet in next 2 stitches, 2 single crochet in next stitch,   single crochet in next 14 stitches, 2 single crochet in next stitch, single crochet in next 2 stitches,  2 single crochet in next stitch, single crochet in next 2 stitches, 2 single crochet in next stitch, single crochet in next 7 stitches



Whether it's *asterisks*, (parentheses) or [brackets] - the rule remains the same - so now...

YOU GET IT!

So pick up those hooks and create something magical for someone you love!
*the boldened text in the 2 variations above, denotes the only difference in the 2 instructions 
**Oops - forgot to leave the comments section open - sorry about that!

The Basics, Yes Really - Cont.

Apologies for taking so long to get Part II up for my readers.  Some pressing issues in addition to some weather phenomenon has kept me far too busy (and stressed) to concentrate of writing up a tutorial accurately.

So, now that we understand how to make a single crochet, how to increase with one and the importance of Stitch Markers when working in rounds - and before you get into any sort of stitch variations, it's important to learn decreasing of single crochets.
After all, what goes up, eventually will need to come back down.. right?
Well, yeah, sure - you could always make 2 halves and sew them together - but as one who detests sewing ANYTHING - I'd rather toss in a few decreases and make life simpler.

So with that in mind - there are at least 3 ways to decrease single crochet stitches.  There's the standard method, the "invisible method" and the ... hmm.. "invisible (invisible) method"?
Let's begin with the Standard or Basic Method (since you need to understand that before you can even attempt one of the invisible versions)

Single Crochet (SC-DEC) :  The single crochet (Dec) is the 2nd most common stitch in any amigurumi project.  Single Crochet Decrease is completed in a 5-step process.
1 - Insert hook into the instructed stitch (in most cases, the next stitch)
2 - draw up a loop and pull it through the stitch - placing the hook back on the side closest to you (2 loops on the arm of the crochet hook)
3 - Insert hook into the next stitch (to the left of the one you just finished working in)
4 - draw up a loop and pull it through the stitch - placing the hook back on the side closest to you (3 loops on the arm of the crochet hook)
5 - yarn over (bring your yarn over the hook) and pull yarn through the 3 loops that are on the arm of the crochet hook.
You have just completed a "Single Crochet Decrease"

** The photographs in this tutorial are worked on flat stitches, however, decreases are made with the same steps - mattering not if the object is 3 dimensional or flat. 
Now, I did say there were 3 ways to decrease a single crochet didn't I?

Hmm..  they are more like "variations" based on the "Basic/Standard" method of decreasing - the 1st.  So before attempting the variations, make sure you understand the basic (it is very easy of miscount a decrease using methods 2 & 3, simply because the decrease stitch will be 'pulled'). 
The 2nd, the "Invisible Decrease", is to only insert your hook into the FRONT LOOPS of the both (all) stitches to be decreased (instead of the entire stitch that you are decreasing), without drawing up a loop until the last stitch is added, and finishing from there just as you would normally to decrease a stitch.

This creates "less bulk" and therefore seems to make the decrease less 'visible' or even 'invisible'.
and The 3rd, is utilizing the 2nd method joined with the same techniques I shared with you for the "Invisible Increase" in Part I of this tutorial - spacing out those Decreases so that they do not line up and create the 'decrease seam'.

All very easy.. yes?
and certainly not to be confused with the "skipping" of a stitch to 'decrease' in an area.



Stuffing

Stuffing depends on availability, more so than desire sometimes.  Here in the states, I have 2 brands of fill that I use:  Morning Glory fill and Polyfil fill.  
Morning Glory is a cotton ball-y like textured fill that works GREAT for feet and small items which need to be firm and supportive for the overall functionality of the project.  
The Poly-fil, is more like stuffing with air.. light and fluffy, which makes for squishy bodies and hugable friends. 
No matter what type of fill you use.. always, ALWAYS.. separate it/fluff it, before just cramming a big wad into your piece.  Take the time to adequately prepare your fill - or it will show in your finished work as 'rolls' or 'lumps'; producing a finished item that you will be less than satisfied with.

Stuffing is NOT about speed - it's about adequately filling your piece to IT'S potential.

Now, I do not care what anyone says... when it comes to stuffing a project, it is a matter of 'personal' tastes as well as style.  Many of my clients are amazed at just how heavy my amigurumi is compared to others they have purchased.  
I tend to stuff my pieces very firmly (over-all) because I have a very tight hand (gauge) while crocheting (which means that the stitches are very tight together and I can really get a lot of fill in without it showing through the stitches).  This comes from years of working with thread.  So feet and body are often weighty on several of my dolls which are more for show than play, such as Maximus and Lu .
Others, have a very loose hand (gauge) and therefore, the stitches have more spacing between them, so they cannot use as much fill without it peeking out between their stitches.

You want to stuff a project completely - meaning, you want the belly or head or arm/leg to look full and not con-caved, bumpy or limp.  The most important items on your amigurumi are going to be your focal points - usually the HEAD and the FEET!  You can sort of .. fudge the body because arms, dresses and even colors.. can deflect attention from it, and still allow you to have a not perfect, but fully stuffed base, without throwing off the overall look of your project.  However, an incorrectly stuffed head or foot is going to stick out like a soar thumb!  Take your time when stuffing these areas especially!

When stuffing feet, that are going to be the foundation for most amigurumi projects and needed to help your amigurumi stand unassisted - ALWAYS use a hard surface such as a tabletop or floor.  You will need the bottoms of those feet to be entirely flat and stuffed firmly - therefore you are going to need something that is NOT going to give into you pushing against it, while inserting your fill.  
If you stuff too lightly, your piece will not have the support it needs and therefore, you will have a finished item that may/may not be able to stand alone or function as intended.

When you are stuffing your head, use small amounts of fill at a time.  A smaller head can be 'molded' in the palm of your hand while you are working to help keep it 'round' or even oval.
Don't be afraid to do some 'shaping'.. it's only fiber and filling.. it's not going to bite you.  Depending on what type of 'fiber' you've used, some slight help in the shape department might be absolutely necessary.
Stuffing is a skill which will come with practice, patience and TIME.  

There is no perfect measurement that can be given to adding stuffing.  It's not some mathematical formula which can be written down to calculate exactly how much you will need for each piece.  Your first amigurumi is not going to be (most likely) a perfectly stuffed piece - it takes time to get the feel, the right feel and overall look, that you will want to have for YOUR pieces.   There are times, when even the 'experts' - take it out, re-fluff it up and re-insert their fill...  persistence and patience are the key.



Chain 2 V.s. Magic Circle
I was asked if I planned on working the "Magic Circle/Adjustable Ring" (more specifically the "Double Magic Circle") Start for amigurumi projects into this "Basics Tutorial".
No, I am not getting into the whole 'magic loop' Vs Ch-2 start. I was taught to use the ch-2 start when applicable, and I do not have "holes" in the beginning of my work - so I've had little interest in retraining myself in this method.  The magic circle is not comfortable for me and therefore, I do not feel educated enough to write about it.  However, there are many wonderful tutorials written online and even videos which you can watch if this is the method you'd like to pursue.  
When I write out my patterns, I always make sure to include those who prefer to use the 'Magic Circle' methods by stating: "Using either the [ch 2, begin work in 2nd st from hook] or [magic circle] method to begin project..."  It is simply a personal preference.



Now.. let's put all this into practice with a little 'exercise' yes? Utilize the information you have gained from this tutorial to make a bang!  (If all this is old news to you, well you can just make a free project, if you'd like!) Either way, a little holiday fun for you from FiberDoodles by K4TT.
On to the workout...

For this exercise, I used a Size G/6 - 4.00 Crochet Hook (US) and Red Heart Worsted Weight Yarns in Red, Black and White

I do not use 'stuff here' indicators.

Body (Make 1):
with Red,
___ Rnd 1: Using either the [ch 2, begin work in 2nd st from hook] or [magic circle] method to begin project, 6 sc  (6 sts)
___ Rnd 2: [Inc in nxt st] 6 times  (12 sts)
___ Rnd 3: [sc in nxt st, Inc in nxt st] 6 times  (18 sts)
___ Rnd 4: [sc in ea of nxt 2 sts, Inc in nxt st] 6 times  (24 sts)
___ Rnd 5: [sc in ea of nxt 3 sts, Inc in nxt st] 6 times  (30 sts)
___ Rnd 6: in BLO, sc in ea st around  (30 sts)
___ Rnds 7-8: sc in ea st around  (30 sts/ea rnd)
___ Rnd 9: [sc in ea of nxt 8 sts, Dec nxt 2 sts tog] 3 times  (27 sts)
___ Rnds 10-11: sc in ea st around  (27 sts/ea rnd)
___ Rnd 12: [sc in ea of nxt 7 sts, Dec nxt 2 sts tog] 3 times  (24 sts)
___ Rnds 13-24: sc in ea st around  (24 sts/ea rnd)
___ Rnd 25: [sc in ea of nxt 7 sts, Inc in nxt st] 3 times  (27 sts)
___ Rnds 26-27: sc in ea st around  (27 sts/ea rnd)
___ Rnd 28: [sc in ea of nxt 8 sts, Inc in nxt st] 3 times  (30 sts)
___ Rnds 29-30: sc in ea st around  (30 sts/ea rnd)
___ Rnd 31: in FLO, sc in ea st around  (30 sts)
___ Rnd 32: [sc in ea of nxt 3 sts, Dec nxt 2 sts tog] 6 times  (24 sts)
___ Rnd 33: [sc in ea of nxt 2 sts, Dec nxt 2 sts tog] 6 times  (18 sts)
___ Rnd 34: [sc in nxt st, Dec nxt 2 sts tog] 6 times  (12 sts)
___ Rnd 35: [Dec nxt 2 sts tog] 6 times  (6 sts)
Finish off, weave tail into FLO of Rnd 35 to close opening and hide tail.


Eyes (Make 1):
with White,
Chain 4, 
___ Rnd 1: Inc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in nxt st, 4 sc in end ch st - turn piece to allow you to work up the other side of original beg chain (as if a flat round), sc in nxt st, Inc in last st. (10 sts)
___ Rnd 2: sc in nxt st, 3 sc in nxt st, slst in ea of nxt 2 sts, 3 sc in nxt st, sc in ea of nxt 2 sts, Inc in ea of nxt 2 sts, sc in nxt st.
Finish off, leaving sufficient tail remaining to secure eye base to body.  
Using black, outline and split the 'eye base' to create 2 separate eyeballs.
Add a pupil with either a small bead or black yarn.


Arm (Make 2): *Model's Arms are NOT stuffed at all
with White,
___ Rnd 1: Using either the [ch 2, begin work in 2nd st from hook] or [magic circle] method to begin project, 6 sc  (6 sts)
___ Rnd 2: [Inc in nxt st] 6 times  (12 sts)
___ Rnds 3-5: sc in ea st around  (12 sts/ea rnd)
___ Rnd 6: [sc in ea of nxt 2 sts, Dec nxt 2 sts tog] 3 times  (9 sts)
___ Rnd 7: [sc in nxt st, Dec nxt 2 sts tog] 3 times, changing to Black on last st (6 sts)

with Black, 
___ Rnds 8-14: sc in ea st around  (6 sts/ea rnd)
Finish Off, leaving sufficient tail remaining to secure Arm to Body.
You can add finishing touches by sc around color change to create the appearance of a glove cuff and/or creating a 'bobble' stitch thumb.


Foot (Make 2)
with White,
Chain 3,
___ Rnd 1: Inc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc in end ch st - turn piece to allow you to work up the other side of original beg chain (as if a flat round), Inc in last st. (8 sts)
___ Rnd 2: [Inc in nxt st, sc in ea of nxt 2 sts, Inc in nxt st] twice  (12 sts)
___ Rnd 3: [sc in nxt st, Inc in nxt st] 6 times  (18 sts)
___ Rnds 4-6: sc in ea st around  (18 sts/ea rnd)
___ Rnd 7: sc in ea of nxt 3 sts, (Dec nxt 2 sts tog) 3 times, sc in ea of nxt 9 sts  (15 sts)
___ Rnd 8: sc in ea of nxt 2 sts, (Dec nxt 2 sts tog) 3 times, sc in ea of nxt 7 sts  (12 sts)
___ Rnd 9: sc in ea st around  (12 sts)
Finish off, leaving sufficient tail remaining to secure foot to lower front of body.

Fuse: with Black, Chain 18, slst in 2nd chain from hook and in ea ch remaining.  
Secure to center top of Body.
You can add another 'Bobble' or 'Popcorn' Stitch, to create a nose. Add any other special features to create your own Amigurumi Friend.

By utilizing this tutorial and the pattern contained within, you agree and are bound by the following.  
Please remember that all patterns from FiberDoodles by K4TT are protected under US Federal Copyright Laws. Reproduction and/or distribution is strictly prohibited unless specifically authorized. This includes, but is not limited to, any form of reproduction or distribution on or through the Internet, including posting, scanning or eMail transmission. Reverse engineering and/or derivative works created using this pattern is also strictly prohibited under the law.
Users may not redistribute, resell, and/or translate pattern into another language for any reason.Permission is granted to print patterns for personal use only.   You MAY NOT sell finished items based soley on this pattern.
Every effort has been made to ensure that all instructions are accurate and complete. FiberDoodles by K4TT cannot, however, be responsible for human error, typographical mistakes or variations in individual work.

The Basics - Yes, Really.

Although I am sure that 99.9% of my clients are familiar with the basics, please indulge me these next series of posts.

It has come to my attention that many NEW to crochet are picking up a hook for the first time and trying to complete not only 'Doodles' but other designer's designs as well... and these crochet newbies are not getting much help.  

Sometimes, it is a simple language barrier that gets in the way.  Many absolutely gorgeous designs are created and sold by non-native 'English' speaking designers and rapidly bought up by English only speaking consumers.  
Although generally, there is no trouble in the pattern itself, often when a question about the pattern is asked, the communication between buyer and designer gets a little fuzzy.  This leads to hard feelings or worse yet, negative outcomes and the feeling of wasted finances.

But many more times it's the 'Franken-Designer' - (those designers who take others designs, alter it/modify it and lay claim to it - relying on the original designers' works to hold up on it's own) - who cannot adequately help anyone's questions relating to the instructions - because they have no idea how to instruct someone who's run into trouble or why the original design was created the way it was.  

There are many qualified and ethical designers out there who will take the time to assist you - after all, you have paid them money for a product... if there is a mis-communication with the product instructions; then the product is, itself, useless to you.  It is in their best interest to assist you - not berate or ignore you, no matter how simplistic the question appears to be.

FiberDoodles by K4TT believes that the ONLY "stupid/dumb question" is the one left unasked.  I have fielded questions from the most basic relating to types of yarn used (not everyone has access to Red Heart) to what size plastic eyes to use (even on doodles which do not make use of plastic eyes) to walking clients through back loops, front loops, single crochet, decreasing and even will try to answer "why" I did things the way I did them.  
I treat each question with the same tenacity as if I had written pattern instructions inaccurately.  This is because my clientele is important to me.

My final thought on this - as a customer, I would not want to deal with a person or business who didn't value me or my return business.  Remember, without YOU - a business will fail to thrive.  A designer relies not only on the sale of an item - but also the word of mouth from a satisfied client.


Okay - without further adieu.. some basics...
(the Red text illustrates how I use the abbreviation in my own patterns)

Single Crochet (SC) :  The single crochet (sc) is the most common stitch in any amigurumi project.  Single Crochet is completed in a 3-step process.
1 - Insert hook into the instructed stitch (in most cases, the next stitch)
2 - draw up a loop and pull it through the stitch - placing the hook back on the side closest to you (2 loops on the arm of the crochet hook)
3 - yarn over (bring your yarn over the hook) and pull yarn through the 2 loops that are on the arm of the crochet hook.
You have just completed a "Single Crochet"

Working in the Round:  Now that you understand the Single Crochet stitch, know how to best utilize it.  True Amigurumi is going to be worked 'in the round'.  
This simply means that rounds are not going to be easily identified with the more familiar slip stitch/ch-1 method, it's going to be a sort of never-ending spiral that works from start to end - with NO obvious breaks in the work.  This makes keeping track of where you are, a little more challenging.
For pattern writers to keep track of where and when to increase, decrease, change colors or even for how long to continue single crocheting - instructions are broken down into "rounds" (rnds).  Rnd 1: instructions, Rnd 2: instructions, etc.

When working in the round - it is really a good idea to utilize "Stitch Markers", especially when doing multiple rounds of the same size.
A stitch marker can be anything from a scrap of yarn, to a safety pin, to a piece of plastic that has been specifically designed to mark stitches purchased from your local craft store - anything that marks the first stitch of the round, is a stitch marker.  Here is an example of the most common stitch-marker here - the scrap of Yarn :

It is NOT important what a stitch marker LOOKS like, it's function is the ONLY important factor!

**Note - In FDbyK4TT written instructions, M/M refers to "Moving the Marker" - which simply means that your round is done, so you insert the Marker on the first stitch of the new round.  I only use this particular instruction when the stitches involved in any round extend past where the round should naturally end.  However, there are a few designers who use this (or like) term at the end of each round, to help remind their clients to make use of stitch markers in their work; so that it is easier to follow the instructions and keep their place.

For example, from FDbyK4TT Spencer the Sunflower : 

___ Rnd 18: sc in ea of nxt 8 sts, Dec nxt 2 sts tog, sc in ea of nxt 5 sts, Dec nxt 2 sts tog M/M (14 sts)

This is most commonly done to place a decrease, increase, for shaping or in preparation for where stitches will need to be placed, in the round you are about to work.  The above was done to make sure that both of the decreases done on this round were positioned in the 'back area' of the doll - giving him a slight 'bump' on one side of the doll and not the other - unfortunately where Rnd 17 ended included 1 stitch of where the placement of the Dec had to be, to achieve the look I was aiming for.  (Okay for those doing the mental math in your head - that is a different lesson - yes, there are technically a 'total' of 15 sts made in the round - however, because you are using stitches already 'counted' - it doesn't count.. LOL - don't confuse yourself yet.. we'll get there!)


Single Crochet Increase (INC) or (SC-INC) :  The single crochet increase (Inc) is completed by placing 2 single crochet stitches into the same stitch.  Designers will utilize the single crochet increase when they want a round to grow larger. Each Increase adds 1 to the Round.  So if you Increase 6 times on a round that already contains 12 stitches, you will end up with 18 stitches at the end of the round. 12 (original count) +6 (increases) =18 (total stitches)  (Although you are making 2 stitches, remember that 1 stitch has already been counted in the round.)


the Single Crochet Increase is completed in 2, 3-step processes.
ONE:
1 - Insert hook into the instructed stitch (in most cases, the next stitch)
2 - draw up a loop and pull it through the stitch - placing the hook back on the side closest to you (2 loops on the arm of the crochet hook)
3 - yarn over (bring your yarn over the hook) and pull that piece through the 2 loops that are on the arm of the crochet hook.
TWO:
1 - Insert hook into the same stitch you just worked.
2 - draw up a loop and pull it through the stitch  (2 loops on the arm of the crochet hook)
3 - yarn over and pull that piece through the 2 loops that are on the arm of the crochet hook.
You have just completed a "Single Crochet Increase"

Now, more advanced crocheters like to "Hide" the Single Crochet Increases.  This is not as complicated as it sounds, however, you will have to know :
a) if you can utilize the method without altering the project.  (Are the increases placed in a certain area to help create the shape? Are the increases uniformly spaced?)
and b) simple Math.
To understand the Single Crochet Increase it is best for you to see the difference between the 'standard method' and the 'hidden method' :

Standard Method:

Invisible Increase Method:

So Math?
Have you come across a pattern which tells you to "increase evenly 6 times" but doesn't tell you how many stitches you need to place between the Increases?  (Pet Peeve!! I hate when designers do that!!  You are paying for instructions - not designing/math lessons!!)  None, the less, it happens.  So, you need to employ a little mathematics.  
Say you need to increase 6 times for a round, and the starting point is 12.  Okay, so you are adding 6 to the 12 you already have, for a total of 18 stitches.  
NOW, divide 18 by 6, which gives you 3.  2 stitches are going to be together (this accounts for the increase) so there is 1 left over.  This means that you will single crochet one time, between each increase for your even spacing.

EXAMPLE: So if you are starting with 20 stitches and you are instructed to increase evenly 4 times.  How would you do it?

...


20+4 = 24
Since you are adding 4 to the round, DIVIDE 24 by 4 which gives you 6 - remember that 2 stitches will be worked in the same stitch, so 6-2= 4.
4 stitches will be between each increase on the round.

Okay.. so what does that have to do with an "Invisible Increase"?

Invisible Increases rely on EVEN numbers mixed with ODD numbers.
Odd numbers plus an increase on a round - you simply follow the count - example had the question been 24+4 giving you a total count of 28 you would divide 28 by 4 giving you 7 (7x4=28) and 7-2(the increase) = 5 (5 stitches between ea increase) you would work 5 single crochet then your increase.  in other words - [single crochet(1), single crochet(2), single crochet(3), single crochet(4), single crochet(5), increase (6&7)] would be done 4 times for an end total of 28 stitches

BUT.. because in our original example you have a total of 4 stitches between each Increase - 24= 6x4  then 6-2 = 4 .. to work the Invisible Increase you would divide the even number in half, so that you have even (same) numbers on BOTH sides of the increase. 
... so each 'grouping' would look like this - single crochet(1), single crochet(2), increase(3&4), single crochet(5), single crochet(6).  
Now, when you are working the round, the only difference will be at the beginning and the end of the round.  
For this example, you single crochet in each of the next 2 stitches of the previous round, then increase.
Now for the next "3 groupings" (making it a total of 4 times that you add the increases), it will be "4 single crochets" between each increase - however after the 4th increase you will only need 2 single crochets to complete the round.

Now before you say.. OMG that is too confusing - it's really not.  It's only written differently than you are used to seeing it - in practice, it will be perfectly clear..  (in many cases designers will not 'tell you' to work your rounds like this - it's one of those "if you know it, you know it" things.  The instructions will most often be written in their simplest form.
Go a head and try it!

ODD rnds will be in blue to help you concentrate on only the Invisible Increase Rounds - 

start with 6 single crochet however you would normally begin a crochet round.
___ Rnd 2: increase in each stitch around for a total of 12 stitches
___ Rnd 3: [single crochet in the next stitch, increase in the next stitch] 6 times for a total of 18 stitches
___ Rnd 4: [single crochet in each of the next 2 stitches, increase in the next stitch] 6 times, but use the INVISIBLE INCREASE METHOD = (sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 2sc, inc, sc) for a total of 24 stitches
___ Rnd 5: [single crochet in each of the next 3 stitches, increase in the next stitch] 6 times, for a total of 30 stitches
___ Rnd 6: [single crochet in each of the next 4 stitches, increase in the next stitch] 6 times, using the Invisible Increase Method (2sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 2sc) for a total of 36 stitches.

See that wasn't hard.. was it?


TODAY'S THOUGHT:
It is absolutely near impossible to exactly replicate another person's handmade work.  No matter how well the pattern/instructions are written - the finished items are not coming off an assembly line or 'template' and therefore things can and will change. 
The way YOU hold your hook, the yarns YOU choose, the tension within YOUR grasp are just a few of the reasons that creating a carbon copy is not a realistic goal.  
You are an individual, and thus, your work will be a one of a kind piece.  Sure, it may look close to the original - but most designers will even have slight variations in their own replications of their own works.  (My attorney makes me submit multiples of my work for copyright applications. While they look nearly identical - there are always slight variations that, perhaps, only I notice.)  

NEVER consider your work "less than" or "not as good" simply because you have not made a mirror copy of a pattern you have purchased.  
I have seen many of my own doodles - where the client has thought theirs was not as good as the model, simply because a color change made it look different or perhaps they did not contain as much stuffing as the model.  And the truth be told (although I have already told them) many times, I think the variations LOOK BETTER THAN THE MODEL!
Handmade is about individuality - it's about the love that goes into completing a project and the pride in what you've created.  If each project looked exactly the same, then it wouldn't be handmade!


It takes considerable time to make a tutorial.
If you have found this tutorial useful, I am pleased - I've achieved my goal.  I will continue from here - hopefully tomorrow, but I cannot guarantee how quickly they will get done, I will continue to post just as quickly as I can to assist anyone who may need it!  - Please be respectful of this work.