I Like to Move It, Move It!

This has been a while coming.  It was suggested some time ago that I write a tutorial for the way I join my doodles; but in all honesty, every time I have one that I could use as a model - I would assemble it, completely forgetting to make the tutorial.  
Today, I remembered :)

Many, who have experimented with crochet "thread bears" are already familiar with the "5 Way Join".  A method where one thread (most often a double strand of dental floss - which is very sturdy) is inserted either in the neck or at the body base and weaved throughout the body; connecting all 5 appendages,  (Both legs, both arms and the head) in one, non-stop motion.

Well, that is fine for small animals which probably are more for show than actual play.  I, personally, have never "mastered" the 5 Way Join and thus, never use it.  It just never gave me a 'tight enough' join.  

How I prefer to join, is in sections.  
Now, why I feel this is a better way for stuffed doodles... if one join becomes weak (due to polyfil compact as a result of play) or breaks - it is easy to fix without having to disassemble the entire doll!

So with that in mind - here is a photo tutorial that I put together today as I was making the final preparations for the next "Handful of" pattern.  
I hope that you find it useful.



Begin by PINNING your limbs into position - make sure that your plush stands without support with all parts attached where you will want to secure them.  Once you have your placements - remove sections which you will not be working with to avoid getting stuck. (more than likely, you are only going to knock it off anyhow while you are working)  In this case, I am going to tutorial the legs;; however, the arms would be done similarly, just further up the body.

The tail has already been sewn onto the body to help keep the 'center' lined up for me.
In Step 1 - we have the MAIN section which is the BODY and the 2 LEGS which I will be joining to the body using my version of the JOINT METHOD.

More than likely, Step 2 you've already completed knowing you were going for a JOINT method of securing the limbs - but just in case.  Weaving through the loops of the last round (in this case 6 stitches) will give you a clean, rounded end that will be seen.

Selecting your tools is important for ease and a neat, finished look.  
I use very large/long upholstery needles to assist in sewing my joints - this needle (as you can see) is large enough to easily fit from one side of the doodle to the other.  I cut a very long hank of yarn (the same color as the body - which will make it easier to hide in the final step) and double it up through the eye of the needle.

Make the initial entry point in an inconspicuous place - one that will be hidden once you are finished and close to the limbs that you are joining.  In this case, since I am joining the legs to the body - I have chosen to enter between the legs, under the body.  Why? This will create less 'space' for the yarn to loosen up in.  Time will eventually compact your fiberfil - not having excess yarn dependent on plump fiberfil ensures a tighter fit, for a greater length of time.

Gently pushing/guiding the needle from it's entry point out the side of the body where I will want the leg and body to meet.  There is technically no 'right or wrong' place to make your join.  However, too low and you run the risk of having the legs collapse under the body - too high and your legs will look like arms.  This is why PINNING prior to any actual sewing is so important for placements.  You want a NATURAL look.  (In the photo above, the pins have been removed as to not have too much visual going on - but in reality, the pins remained until I had the tip of the needle inserted into the leg to ensure that this was the precise point I wanted the leg and the body to meet.)

Push/Guide your needle through the leg at an angle and exit out the front of the leg - careful not to split any of your crochet stitches.  You are merely exiting so that you can re-enter and create a sort of "Triangle" to give you a pocket of polyfil to cushion your join.

Re-Enter in the same hole you just exited - and push/guide the needle straight across to the other side of the leg - consider this, the flat/bottom of the triangle.

Finally, re-enter on this side and back out the original point of entry into the leg - then back into the body where your yarn is coming out.

Here is another view - PURPLE representing your first push - BLUE - your 2nd push and RED your final push back out of the leg

Re-Enter the body and push/guide your needle through to the opposite side of the body (again where you want the body and leg to join) and repeat the same "triangle" procedure for securing the 2nd leg.

Once you have re-entered the body, you want to exit (rather than going straight across again).  Exit through the same hole as the entry point.

DO NOT PULL YOUR YARN TAILS TO TIGHTEN JOIN!  Gently apply pressure equally to both legs - squeezing them into the body before you begin to use steady pulling to draw the tails tighter together.  Once you feel that the joint is tight enough and that you cannot gain more yarn tail without damaging the doodle - knot once - DO NOT LET GO YET.  
Try moving the legs back and forth.  Adjust accordingly (loosen or tighten yarn join).  Once you are satisfied with your join - secure the knot and snip the tail.

Then use your tweezers (or current method) to hide the snipped tail inside the body.
and Viola'...

You've got some legs that are now movable, poseable.. PLAYABLE!

Download the pdf Tutorial

When Words Fail.. Photos are Best

Cluny the St Paddy's Day Cow sports 'em...

and so does JellyBean..

but what are they?  do I have to sew them on?  Ugh!  I don't understand!!
Let me make it easy for you!

Creating the look of layers is easier and less time-consuming that actually creating layering.
If you want a plushy to look like he's wearing pants, or a sweater - you have 2 choices.  You can either create a separate item of clothing, or you can incorporated it into the design itself by making use of color changes.  

The problem with creating an entirely separate item (aside from the measurements and joining - which would be more the designer's headache), is that you'll be doing twice the work.
The issue with a simple color change... is that it often looks like just that, a simple color change...
but when you add depth to it, you change the entire perception of the project.
Notice how the cuff's and waistlines make the clothing on these plushies appear removable.

Although these are not the actual instructions for either project, the principle behind the look is the same.  Those who are scratching their head wondering how to accomplish this look..
Here you go :)

So here is your simple round - instructions will tell you where (or if you are ad-libbing, you'll decide on your own where you want a sweater to hit the belly, cuff to hit arm, etc)
But let's say for the sake of argument - the variegated yarn represents the animal/doll body and the flat color will represent the 'item of clothing'
so, the pattern reads Rnds 1-4 have increases of 8 per rnd - so here at the end of Rnd 4 we have a total of 32 sts.

Instructions for Round 5 state that you are to crochet (most often with a new color) in the FRONT loops only - single crocheting in each of the next 3 sts and Increasing in each 4th stitch, 8 times for a total of 40 sts at the completion of this round.

So that is what you do, crochet the round according to the instructions.  Why?  because you will NEED those unworked backloops ... eventually...

around and around.. 

and from the "wrong side"...

Here in this photo, are completed Rnds 5 and 6 - so far it's all good .. a little odd, but all good... nothing difficult... 
but then you have to take 40 single crochet stitches back down to 32 single crochet stitches, while rejoining this to the round that only has 32 sts - 
Hey ... wait a minute!  There is no corresponding stitch for Rnd 4, it only has 32 stitches, and Rnd 6 has 40..
Now what?  You are going to need to decrease, but how will that work?

Overall, most stitches will be made from the current round (2 loops) and the reserved back loop of Rnd 4 (1 loop) and drawing the yarn through all these loops to reconnect the piece and create a 'layered' look.  But what of the needed decreases?

Many people are familiar with a "hacked stitch" that was created by crocheters called the "invisible decrease" - this method of decreasing using only the front loops of the 2 stitches being decreased instead of using the entire stitch.
This, lessens the bulk in the decrease and creates a nicer looking stitch overall (and, in theory, with less bulk, the decrease is less noticeable.)

This is what is depicted in the photos above; and in most instances, yarn over and drawing through all loops on the hook would produce the (invisible) decrease - but for our purposes, we need to rejoin this flapping rnd with the rest of the project..
so at this point, before yarning over, you will want to add one more 'loop' to the hook.. that of the reserved back loop from rnd 4 - (the variegated round in this tutorial).

NOW, yarn over and draw through all the loops on the hook. 
and another look.. from a different angle (the photo below is just a single crochet rejoining and NOT a decrease)

continue to work the pattern with single crochet and this 'invisible' decrease until end.  **Note, the last 2 stitches placed will take PATIENCE, they will be the most difficult to work into the round, so make sure before you continue on with the pattern, count your stitches and make sure your count is accurate. 

and all done..
you work the rest of the pattern as written, but when it's all done, you get a result that looks like this...

HELP! My Crochet Looks Like Swiss Cheese

This is one of 2 tutorials that I will be putting up today.
Often a tutorial comes out of necessity, other times out of a single question... this one, because of a custom order recently completed.

A few weeks ago, I received an eMail addressing BLO (back loops only) and if I could complete a project  for several baby items (a blanket, binkey & bottle) using only Back Loops.  I thought it strange but took the commission and completed the job.  When the client received her completed order, she wrote me again asking me HOW I was able to get it done without it looking like "Swiss Cheese".  
The issue was that when my client attempted to crochet using the back loops, there were gaping holes in the work that were aesthetically unsatisfactory.

Working in back loops only can be a bit tricky if you don't want your completed project looking more like a doily rather than a stuffed toy or 'plush blanket'..
Here I will show you how to tighten up those gaps.

Crocheting a pattern which is a round, let's say Rnd 1 = 6, Rnd 2 = 12 and so on up to 30 sts (which is only as far as I made this tutorial) and working in BLO (back loops only)

Rnd 1:  Nothing new here, begin your project how you would usually start any project by either crocheting a 2 chain and beginning your work in the 2nd chain from the hook - or using one of the 'magic circle' starts.

The photo here, is obviously more than just the first round - however I wanted to have a large enough space to work to be able to show you exactly what I had done for the previous 2 rounds - so I changed to a variegated yarn ..
You can tell from the ridge lines of the unworked front loops, I am working on Rnd 4 by the time of this photo.. but once you understand where you should be placing your stitches, this will not matter!

Now, in the photo above, this is the stitch that most people go through and think, "okay, that's the back loop, that is the one I am supposed to use.. I'm good"
.. but if you look a little harder... you can actually SEE 3 possibly workable loops to use.. 

So, anyone who's read my tutorial on chain starts.. yup, you know where I am going!
You take advantage of this 'hump' for a fuller stitch that creates less drag and pull!

Now, that looks like any other normal single crochet stitch that you would make, but.. it's not!  
You are crocheting in the back loop only of the current round, if my hook wasn't pressing against it, you would be able so see the front loop - unworked..

Well, doesn't that mess things up over all?  I mean, if you are using the hump... doesn't it mess up somewhere?  Does it make your round smaller?  Bigger?
Judge for yourself - here is the "wrong side" of the work ...  (as you can tell from my sloppy, unruly tails, waving to the camera)

and here they are side by side...

Try it for yourself.  The hardest part of this method, will be retraining yourself of the habit of using a single strand of yarn to hold a stitch.  :)

I Hate Chain Starts!!!!

I have seen so many complaints about "chain starts" that it honestly began to baffle me.

I've had one or two people write to me requesting that I re-write a pattern so that they can begin with a "magic circle" instead of a 'chain' and even had one who accused me of using camera tricks and that I was using glue or something to "not have gaps in my beginning (chain) round"

Now, I say baffle me because I've never had an issue with gaps or spaces when I begin with a chain and before I began designing larger amigurumi, I was a thread bear/animal fanatic.  So, I just accepted that perhaps my tension was extremely tight.

NO, I do not use a smaller hook for the beginning chain round, that would be changing the pattern - if the pattern calls for a Size G Hook, that is what I use through and through.

No, I do not sew anything together - I do not use glue or any 'designer tricks' - I think the glue would be too hard once dried (as I use superglue at the finish off of a doily) - and I really don't know any designer "tricks" per se.

Chain starts are very common in many Asian amigurumi instructions, so perhaps when I was taught, I was not taught as most Americans are taught- perhaps my way of doing things isn't normal... which wouldn't really surprise me as I've been told my entire life that I "have my own way of doing things - right or wrong".

It wasn't until a fellow designer posted a 'tutorial' about crocheting an oval that I realized why so many people were having gap issues - they are splitting the chain!

Any-who-diddle:

A tutorial to help anyone who is having a problem with spaces, gaps or just wants to learn a different way of beginning a project with a "chain start".

Perhaps the pattern reads as such:

Chain 11,

Inc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in ea of nxt 8 sts, 4 sc in end ch st - turn piece to allow you to work up the other side of original beg chain (as if a flat round), sc in ea of nxt 8 sts, Inc in last st.  (24 sts)

You begin your chain - 

Your chain - and from the side (this is important!)

Do you notice the little 'hump' behind each chain?

When I was taught to crochet in the chain, it was these little humpy bumps that the first row of stitches were worked into - whether the project was for an amigurumi, a blanket or an article of clothing - a chain in almost any other item would show, you want it to look as polished as the rest of the project, not 'loopy' or like someone has pulled at it.

Working the chain - completing the stitches instructed by the designer, but working in these 'humps' rather than splitting the chain. 

*I decided to change colors to emphasize the different 'sections' of this tutorial.

Here you can see what I've done (in purple) with the first few stitches

Continuing to follow the instructions, single crochet stitch being placed in each hump directed, then 4 single crochet in the last stitch's hump/turning the piece as the final stitch is placed to allow the piece to be worked on the opposite side of the chain.

As you can see from the photo, the chain is very 'full' this way and not flimsy or being pulled by your stitches - it almost looks as if you are crocheting in ROWS instead of crocheting around a chain.

Now you can see the end result is much cleaner, more polished - no holes, no gaps, no smaller hooks, no sewing - no tricks!

I hope you have found this tutorial useful - and perhaps, you may learn to love chain starts as much as I do.

Tutorial: Simple Long Stitch

I received a request tonight asking about the long-stitches used in several of the KISS Series animals.  As I tried to explain this simple stitch, the words appeared deceptively complicated; so, time for a visual tutorial.  This is a very basic and simple visual tutorial on how to create the look of separation in hooves, or toes, etc.

First you see the crochet piece in it's finished, but in un-detailed form.  This being a sheep's arm, in need of a single long stitch to give the appearance of a grooved hoof.

With contrasting color, insert the crafting needle through one side of the hoof, and exit the opposite side, as seen in the photos below.

Bring your yarn around the front of the piece and re-enter the hoof in the same stitch as you originally added the contrasting color, and follow the same stitch path again - seen below.

Slowly, evenly - begin to pull the ends tightly until you have the long stitch tight against the foot - be careful not to pull too tightly as it is very possible to either brake the yarn you are working with, or break stitches within your project.  An even, constant tension and patience works best.

Once you have the desired look, you want to re-insert the needle, slightly to the left or the right of the exit stitch, so that both tails are on the same side and you can make a knot to finish off as seen below. 

After knotting, snip off your remaining tails of yarn, and hide the small remain inside your work, for a finished/polish end product.  I have a pair of needle nose tweezers, but almost any slender item will work to hide those tail snippets.

And Viola, a hoof.

Please keep in mind that this was a very quick tutorial, and I know that the photographs are not the best quality, it is merely an intent to get the idea.
If you have multiple toes, repeat the process for as many 'separations' are needed.

TUTORIAL: When Round things go FLAT

Several of my crochet designs require you to crochet in the round - then BLAM, all the sudden you need to fold the piece "flat" and work on it like it's a row.  This is common in eyelids, fins, flippers - even in ending an arm or leg instead of sewing the opening closed.

Now, I didn't invent this little maneuver, and I arrogantly thought that everyone could adjust to working in a 'row' - after all, everyone began crocheting by working on afghans yes??  But after seeing quite a few people asking for further explanation, I thought a tutorial was in order.

okay... so there you are happily working in rounds..round and round and round...

then it says to fold flat and crochet through both layers..

huh? what?

First, remove from your mind that 'OMG, what do I do?' feeling.  If you can single crochet, you can single crochet 2 separate pieces into one flat row - I promise.

In the photos below, I have begun a simple round crochet piece which begins with the usual 6sc, increases to 12sc, then to 18sc  I used variegated yarn for the 'rounds' and gray will be used to illustrate the joining.

18 single crochet stitches which you are now going to reduce to a mere 9 sc in 1 swoop - without decreasing at all :)

In model #:

1.  You see the round as you most easily recognize it.

2.  Squeeze the round flat so that the round lys atop each other with equal fiber on each side

3:  Insert you hook, working first through both loops of the stitch (just like working a 'normal sc') but instead of yarn over..

4.  ... continue to push your hook through both loops of the stitch directly behind your original entry point.

5.  Now, you yarn over and crochet as if making any other sc st.

6.  As you can see, several sc sts together, look just like part of the round.

7.  However, on closer inspection, you have lessened the amount of stitches in your project;

8.  while, closing up the opening. 

9.  Here we see the piece completely closed by using the sc joining method.

Hope this helps -

:)

Happy Crocheting to All.